Stage 24: Rabanal to Molinaseca

 

Only 223 km to go!

I walked with Cowboy Russ and Lea today. We left at 6:20 AM. Our intent was to get to the iron cross for sunrise which was about 8:15 am. It was dark and cold. We had to climb 3 or 4 miles up to the next town. We had a tentative plan to meet Michele there. She wanted to get going so she left before we got there. 

As we climbed it got colder, windy and foggy. Again, I had on almost all my clothes. 

I had the best night sleep yet on the Camino last night. About eight hours. My back didn’t hurt at all at night or in the morning. i’m still shipping my pack. it feels a tiny bit like cheating when I see everybody else carrying their backpack. it is necessary right now. 

After a quick coffee in the town where Michele stayed, we proceeded a mile or so to the iron cross. I had been hearing about the iron cross the entire Camino. People bring rocks or objects from home and leave them at the base of the iron cross. I didn’t bring anything from home. I did pick up a beautiful rock along the way to leave at the iron cross. 

I had grand expectations for the iron cross. I thought it would be a huge tall metal edifice. instead, it was a telephone pole with a three or 4 foot metal cross on top.

I thought about all my regrets as I laid my rock down at the base. Those regrets that nag at you through your life. I just let them all go. Never to bother me again. I hope.

We continued for miles in the wind cold and fog. I tucked my poles under my arm and put my hands in my pockets. people were shocked that I had sandals with no socks. my feet weren’t too cold. 

Then we heard bagpipes. at first we weren’t sure what it was. It got louder. Then we came upon a glorious food truck, playing music, with a bunch of cows hanging around, and a fire burning. 

It was like a magical oasis. We stopped by a fire, had some food and basked. 

We didn’t want to leave. we had a long day ahead of us. 16 miles total. Onward.

After several miles, we could see mountains off to the left and it looked like the sun was breaking through. it was spectacular. slowly the clouds and fog and wind all went away. it was one of the most beautiful vistas on the Camino.

Lea and the Cowboy 

We knew that there was an awful downhill stretch coming up. it seemed to take forever to get to it, but we did. it wasn’t as bad as advertised. we had to traverse some loose shell and rocks on steep descents. We managed. 

Partway down the descent we came to Acebo. This was the Cowboy’s destination. I could tell that he wanted to continue walking. We said our goodbyes, hoped to see each other again up the road, and parted.

Lea and I finished the dissent. We came to our destination Molinaseca after about four or five more miles. it is a beautiful small town with a river running through it. All the buildings have black slate roofs. we came to our “hostel” El Palacio. They gave us an elegant room with lots of space and a sunporch. We have a clear view of the Camino walking by the hotel. we can pilgrim watch from the room. I took a shower. I hand washed my clothes. They are drying on the sunporch. I am kicked back in bed, relaxing and writing this blog.

I have to mention a conversation we had in Rabanal  yesterday afternoon. We sat around and had drinks with Sting, Mary and Craig from Sacramento and Judy and Kim from Newfoundland. The subject of TDFSF came up. To my surprise, several people don’t like them. They think TDFSF are pretentious. Maybe they are.

Judy and Kim first encountered Don and Chuck on a train before starting the Camino. They thought they were cold and rude. Judy and Kim are very down to earth. Judy is a retired social worker. they are probably in their late 60s or early 70s. Mary felt the same way about them. I get along fine with TDFSF. I like them But I can understand how they might rub some people the wrong way. They are wealthy high tech dudes. They are staying at the nicest places, eating at the finest restaurants, and not mingling as much with the Pilgrims. Chuck comes across like a Company president or executive. They are very accomplished. If you have the opportunity to talk to Don or Chuck, you realize they are smart funny nice people. It might be a class issue. Mary and her husband Craig are retired land surveyors. I have more in common with Don and Chuck than most pilgrims. 

I am more down to earth than them. I think I do a good job in life navigating amongst groups.

Love,

the bear