Santiago

 

I am exhausted. Short walk today-12 miles. We just walked 500 miles all the way across Spain. 

I was not emotional at the end. While walking today, I did not want this journey to end.

But, here we are in Santiago. It’s over. 

We got all our certificates. I checked into the Parador Hotel. Very old and elegant. I took a hot bath. We all took a tour of the church towers. I could barely keep my eyes open. Everyone went out for drinks. I am in bed for a nap. 

Like I said, I am exhausted. I just walked 500 miles. 

The end.

Love,

b

A Big Dad Hug for Lea

Gandalf

Like West Marin

Herb liquor 

Billboards on the Camino 

Getting close!

Paella for 2d lunch today 

 

Octopus and Beer for Lunch

Last night Lea and I walked 1 1/2 miles into Arzua for dinner. Chuck promised wonderful paella. When we got to town, we found out that the paella place couldn’t accommodate us. We had to eat elsewhere. The food was good. However, I wouldn’t have walked 1 1/2 miles for a pilgrim dinner. 

When we walked in Chuck who is about six foot five gave Lea the biggest sweetest dad hug I have ever seen. He hadn’t seen her in a couple of days. No words were spoken. Everyone knew what it was about.

Great dinner. After dinner, Lea and I had to walk one and a half miles back to Ribadiso, knowing that in the morning we had to go back up the same hill one and a half miles a third time. 

Lea needed that hug. Lea needed all of us having her back and caring for her. We all came together as a Camino family last night. Today, Michele told Lea that she booked her a room for her at the Parador hotel tomorrow night in Santiago. Michele and I are staying there. Not cheap. 

I could not be happier for Lea. The two of us stopped for lunch today seven km from our destination. I had octopus. We both had beer. I told Lea we all love her. She cried. I hugged her. 

This morning, Lea and I left our Albergue at about 8 AM. we walked up the hill to Arzua for breakfast. At the café, we met a woman from Pleasant Hill, Francesca. Then Baldwin from Belgium (Gandalf - because of his big stick) joined us. We all walked off together. you are never alone on the Camino.

After several miles, we came to a café where Lea wanted to stop because her hip hurt. Gandalf had some arnica cream for her. We sat down and had a few snacks. Met a couple from Campbell California and some women from Australia. 

The Camino can be very social. I thrive in this kind of environment. I am a bit of a social Chamaeleon. I have met people from varying groups. I meet people easily. I’m outgoing. i’m able to fit in easily. I try to talk to almost everyone on the trail. It might be a simple Buen Camino. If they obviously speak English, I’ll ask where they’re from and introduce myself. I tell them now that we’ve met, we are old friends. I’m having a lot of fun.

Today my old friend Linda Cordova, The Brit who moved on ahead, posted something brilliant: The beauty of the Camino is in the walking. So true.

Galicia, and especially the area we’re in now is very bucolic. It is like West Marin. Very rural. Green. Small towns that could be Tomales, CA. 

I’m including a lot of pictures of the path, which show people from behind. That is what you see when walking on the Camino. 

Yesterday, Mike Snow told me he saw “the queen of the Camino“. I found her today: Short orange tennis skirt, painted fingernails, lots of jewelry, makeup and lipstick. Just observing; not judging.

This is the penultimate post. tomorrow we reach Santiago. There is excitement in the air. A few days ago I felt weary. I am recharged. Now I don’t want the Camino to end. 

TDFSF are also flying back home out of Paris. We all fly to Paris Friday for the weekend. I’ll check out the sights and fly home Monday the tenth.

Tomorrow in Santiago!

Love,

b

Paris with TDFSF 

Unknown legends

The. Beauty is in the walking today’s intake

Lake west marine today

Bucolic

Pictures from behind. That’s what you see on the Camino

Queen of the Camino – tennis skirt, lots of jewelry, make up, lipstick, fingernails

Penultimate post

Stage 31: Palas de Rei to Ribadiso

Granache Restaurant in Melide

Octopus and boiled potato oozing with garlic 

John, one of the young bohemians 

Yes, a donkey on the Camino 

My Albergue bunkmate Fran from Cleveland 

M

Last night we returned to our lunch spot for dinner because the octopus was so good. About eight of us had octopus and various dishes with lots of sangria. 

After dinner Chuck told me he talked to Justin. He told Justin that he was no longer part of our Camino family because of his behavior. He could have no further contact with Lea and that he needed to make an appointment to get counseling when he got home. No one has heard from Justin since. I messaged his mom that he needed her support and guidance. Michele discussed the note with her. 

I met Mike, Chuck and Don in town this morning at 6 AM. We had a coffee and pastry. we walked out together at about 6:15 AM. 

I believe we walked 17 miles today. We stopped for octopus for lunch in Melide. Susanne (hereinafter Suzanne ala Leonard Cohen) caught up with us and walked with us for the rest of the day. After lunch we ran into Lea and Michele.     Michele began to develop shin splints. She and Mike took a cab I had. Lea walked with Don, Susanne and me. 

We came to our hotel/Hostal/Albergue at about 2 PM. Very relaxing rural atmosphere. A wonderful woman who did not speak a word of English checked us in. I understood about 10% of what she said. I understood her to say that we were both very good looking and that she thought I was Lea‘s dad, because of the eyes. 

Later on, we are supposed to meet TDFSF ATP, Suzanne, et al.  for Paella dinner. 

We are finally getting some laundry done. we gave the nice lady about 20 pounds of stuff to wash. I literally gave her every piece of clothing I had except my socks and one pair of short pants. As I sit writing this, I’m outside in the sun, wearing those short pants with flip-flops and no shirt, going commando. Let’s hope the laundry gets done before dinner.

I’m putting in a few days worth of photos. I couldn’t get anything downloaded  yesterday.

Love,

b

Oy Veh! The note

Michele’s favorite - octopus!

I had an excellent walk today. I started out with Michael Snow. Then I ran into Susanne from Denmark and walked the rest of the day with her. Susanne is a social worker from Copenhagen. Her name is pronounced like Susan, but I’ll call her Suzanne, ala the Leonard Cohen song. 

We walked 15 miles today. The path was crowded. Many many new Pilgrims. None of us like it. it is not as peaceful. most of us are ready to be in Santiago. Only about three more days. 

Back to yesterday, Lea rolled into our hostel about 8:30 PM, with John, one of the young Bohemians. he booked a room at our Albergue/hostel. We all had a wonderful dinner of octopus, roast lamb and salad. 

Lea showed me the note. As expected, it was a love note. However, it was inappropriate, abusive and lewd.

Lea and John left early this morning. They planned to walk 40 km. Mike and I had breakfast and left at 8 AM.

Halfway through the walk, I caught up with Lea. she was with Michele. The two of them walked together for a while, to discuss the Justin situation, among other things.

At the end of the walk, as we approached Palas De Rey, Susanne and I came upon Lea and Michele. they were looking for Don and Chuck, who were having lunch. we decided to join them. Lea would not go to the restaurant, because she thought Justin would be there. He was, she moved on. It is despicable that he made Lea feel uncomfortable.

We had a lunch of sangria, octopus, Padron peppers, salad and patatas with aioli. I felt uncomfortable with Justin at the next table.

The food was so good we decided to go back for dinner at 7 PM. Don invited Justin. Afterword I sent Don a message that I didn’t want to eat with Justin. Michele shared the content of the note with Don and Chuck. We will all deal with Justin and likely inform his mother. He will not be at dinner.

I was right, several weeks ago when I told Jayne that Justin was too immature to be on his own. I take back everything I said since then about how well he seemed to be doing. The note was inexcusable.

After lunch, I wandered down the street to my Albergue. A massive place. I’m in punk 54. luckily, a lower bunk. Fran, the old hippie from Cleveland is in the next bunk. Comforting to find an old friend. I invited him to join us for dinner.

I think this is my last bunkhouse. I looked at my itinerary. The last couple of places look like private rooms. 

I’m feeling a little weary. despite that my current shirt doesn’t pass the smell test, I’m not gonna do any laundry. Yesterday‘s shirt doesn’t smell so good either. I just don’t give a shit. Maybe I’ll do laundry tomorrow. Maybe I’ll just be stinky. I’m laying in my bunk. I haven’t even opened my backpack. I want to be in Santiago, NOW!

I just showered. I put on my cleanest dirty shirt.

Love,

B

Soy Milk on the Camino?

With Mike and Michele-100 km to Santiago 

I had pizza last night with TDFSF ATP. Lea ate with, and hung out with the young Bohemians. After dinner I had a drink with some of them and Sting.

I didn’t want to drink anymore because I felt like I might be coming down with a cold. I’ve been drinking a lot of water. 

We left Sarria just past 6 AM. It was about a 14 mile walk today to Portomarin. There was some Justin drama today. As I mentioned before, Justin is obviously in love with and obsessed with Lea. unrequited love. 

Over the last couple of days Justin started acting very strange. He became jealous if Lea spent time with any other man. He looked and acted depressed. He regressed socially. He didn’t always respond when spoken to. At 4 AM I got up to take a pee at the Albergue. I found him fully dressed, wide awake in the bathroom writing in his journal. 

I was worried about him. I thought about contacting his mom. As I got ready to leave the Albergue, he sat in the lobby silently. Lea had been out drinking. She did not get up to leave early with us. As I walked out of the Albergue, I saw Justin put what looked like a note in Lea‘s shoe. 

Justin and I started the walk with Michael Snow and Michele. After a short distance, Justin stopped. we weren’t sure if he went back to town or followed us. It was dark. He had no light with him. 

Mike, Michele and I discussed what to do about Justin. At the first opportunity, we stopped for breakfast. Michele sent a message to Jayne , Justin‘s mom expressing our concern about him. 

Justin is on the spectrum. There is little dispute about that, despite that I don’t think think he’s been formally diagnosed. 

Chuck and Don arrived at the breakfast place. They saw Justin back in Sarria. He told them that he had or would delivered a private note to Lea. 

I sent a message to Lea alerting her to the situation and asking her to try to be nice to Justin, because we were worried about him. I got a vague message back from her asking whether I knew what Justin wrote to her. I didn’t, and still don’t. I will update everyone later, when I find out. 

We saw Justin on the trail a lot today. He seemed perfectly fine. Whatever happened couldn’t have been too traumatic.  

Mike Michele and I had a great walk today. Many laughs. 

We stopped at another café for a second breakfast. Recall that a horde of new pilgrims joined the Camino at Sarria. The trails were more crowded. They were more and fancier cafés. 

What happened at this café was priceless. As I stood in line to order, the two women in front of me asked for soy milk with their café  con Leche. That is a pretty ridiculous request in this country. I noticed that they had brand new shoes and clean backpacks. First day Pilgrims. I’m only observing, not judging. However, we had a good laugh about them all day long. I saw them several other times throughout the day. You can guess their nickname: soy milk. 

Later in the walk, I had the good fortune to walk with Kim and Judy. I adore these two women. they have a wonderful accent. I’ll try to get a video of them. Judy told us a story about her and Sting. She asked him to remove her water bottle from the back pocket of her backpack. After she had a drink she asked him to put it back in again. She then said, “when is the last time you heard that?“ She is hilarious. A mid 60s-ish retired social worker.

We reached our destination town – Portomarin, about 12:30 PM. A big gang of us sat at a café, drinking and snacking. TDFSF showed up. Recall that Kim and Judy felt that TDFSF were arrogant and pretentious. In no uncertain terms, they did not like TDFSF. Chuck sat at our table. I could feel the tension. He had no idea they didn’t like him. After some awkwardness on their part, they were civil to him. He asked them all about Newfoundland. He wants to vacation there. I hope they realized he is not an ogre.

Mike, Lea and I are sharing a room a mile out of town. I needed to call them for a ride but Lea hadn’t come to town yet. she sent me a text that she still had 10 km to go and they were stopping at every cafe for a beer. There were more than 10 cafés along the route. I suspect she is walking with the young Bohemians. One of them, John, had his birthday yesterday. They are still celebrating. 

Mike and I got tired of waiting. We got a ride to our hostel. don’t ask me the difference between a hostel and an Albergue. I have no idea. I took a hot bath. Mike and I had a great lunch. More octopus for me. i’m gonna go back at 9 PM for dinner. 

I heard from Lea. she is on her way to the hostel. more to follow. 

Love,

b

Stage 28: Triacastela to Sarria

I had dinner last night with about 15 people. Sting set it up. I sat with Sting and Kim and Judy. Kim and Judy are from Newfoundland (correct pronunciation - understand Newfoundland). These two crack me up. They are my age. They look sedate but swear like sailors. I pried Jim Burd away from TDFSF to have dinner with us. He loved it. 

Kim, Sting & Judy 

Sting invited the young bohemians. A group of thirty something handsome strapping lads led by Ian from D.C. Ian is a hipster dude with a man-bun and a big tattoo on his arm. They smoke, drink and walk up to 50 km (30 miles) in a day. Stopping along the way to have beers. They carry heavy packs with camping gear. Last night they just camped in town, not even bothering to book an Albergue. It got down to the mid 40s overnight! Last night the young bohemians had a bunch of young beautiful women in tow. 

Lea with the young bohemians 

Dinner: I always try to order the local wierd foods. I had been enjoying soups. I saw soup on the menu which was a local specialty. I ordered it. I couldn’t quite tell what it was. It tasted very porky. it had lots of mysterious white bits of stuff in it. I ate some with difficulty. Then I came to a big piece of something that had a bone in the middle. it had some weird gelatinous meaty substances with skin around it. I think it was a pigs foot. I couldn’t finish it. if you know me well, I love to eat and rarely leave any food on the plate.

Pig’s foot?

Main course: another local specialty – beef tongue. It was delicious. 

After dinner the old farts (Sting, Kim and Judy, Jim and me) headed back for our respective Albergues. I left Lea behind to hang with the young Bohemians, drink more and smoke cigarettes. I was happy that she spent some time with younger folks.

This morning I headed out with Lea and Justin at 7 AM. We met up with TDFSF ATP at their hotel. We had breakfast with them and left as a group around 7:30. 

Don herded me off from the group so that we could walk together. We spent hours walking and talking. He was a high-powered Silicon Valley executive. 62 years old, retired. Smart, gentle, caring. Good family man. I really like and respect him. We talked a lot about life. I appreciated that he singled me out to chat. 

After several hours we came to a café. There, we ran into Jim Burd and Sting. Sting had never met TDFSF. Then Chuck showed up. After coffee and an orange juice, we all left together. Sting and TDFSF got along famously. 

Sometime around noon we arrived at our Albergue. I dropped off my stuff. Jim Kelly, the retired firefighter from Buffalo New York (the Saint)  was there. He and Lea and I went out for lunch. his wife and daughter are arriving today in Sarria, to walk the remaining 120 km to Santiago with him. he is so excited that he cried a little bit at lunch. 

Beautiful countryside today. It looked a little bit like Marin County. Lots of ferns; lots of cows and dairies. 

Sarria is a major staging point for the Camino. many people start here and just walk the last bit to Santiago.  they get credit for having done the entire Camino. Yes, you can do the Camino in a week. Chuck says we’re not supposed to judge those people. 

Lea at the supermarket 

Love,

b