Stage 23: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino

Fran from Cleveland 

18th Century Church in Rabanal 

Livestock on the trail 

Man pulling cart

Wild West “Albegurgue”

I had a low key dinner last night with TDFSF and their growing posse, and Michele. It was hard to find anything open in Astorga before 8 pm. We all wanted to eat early and get to bed.

I slept poorly again. 11 pm to 2:30 am. C’est la vie. Up early to walk with Lea and Michele at 6:15. Very cold. I wore almost all my clothes: a pair of shorts under my light long pants, long sleeve shirt, light fleece jacket under my rain jacket, with a buff on my head. My toes were cold in my sandals. Rain is forecast in a few days. 

We hadn’t gotten far before we caught up with Amaya from San Sebastián. She is very nice but speaks little English. We met her a few nights ago at Amelia’s Albergue. She walked with me in relative silence to the first breakfast stop. Her backpack was tilted on her back and hanging too low. I offered to help her with it though google translate. She was too shy to accept assistance. I tried to get Jim Burd to help with an intervention but he missed her by 5 minutes. Off she went. I asked Jim to look out for her.

We had a nice breakfast stop in Santa Catarina. Seeing lots of new faces. New groups. I’m eager to meet new people.

We are staying at a different town from the group. I am in the mood to meet some new people. You get tired of the same old faces.

We are about halfway - 6 miles. My back hurts a little. It hurt last night. That is why I slept badly.

I shipped my pack again to allow my back to heal. Very easy. Five euros.

I talked to Peg yesterday. She cracks me up. I missed her baby shower. Lots of people at the shower and maybe some people reading this did not know that she pranked me. He never read the blog. He did not comment. All the comments from “Justin” were really from Peg.

Peg can’t pronounce Albergue (Al bear gay). She calls it an 

Albuguergue. Pronounced like the city in New Mexico.

We are walking through more foothills. You can see the mountains ahead.

We are jaded now by the beauty of Spain. The first weeks, we were awed.

We arrived at Rabanal at about 11:30 am. We had to go to a cafe to check in. We met Fran from Cleveland there. An old hippie. They had Johnny Cash and Willy Nelson song’s playing. He and I talked about music as we pilgrim watched. I was impressed how many people he knew walking by. He came to the Camino with three friends. He ditched them to be alone and happy and free.

We got to our Albergue. Small room with shared bath. Saw Judy and Kim from Newfoundland. Cold stone floor. First time I have been really cold. I took a hot shower and got under the covers to warm up. Took a catnap. Then wrote this blog.

I am waiting for one more toenail to fall off; then I’ll wear shoes and socks. It is barely hanging on. Ugly but not painful. I’ll spare you a photo. Almost everyone has experienced blisters or toenail problems. Those who trained the most and hardest fare the best. 

Love,

the bear