“20 years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade wind in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”
Mark Twain
Got up, packed up and left the hotel. alone at 7 AM. Still kind of dark but getting light. Felt good. Felt confident. Headed out of SJPDP with some others. Within the first kilometer an Italian woman appeared and asked to join me. Of course. She spoke no English and I speak no Italian. I tried a little Spanish which she seemed to grasp.
We figured out some rudimentary communication. Her name is Graziella. We talked as best we could in Spantaliano. Often there were other Italians around to translate.
I ended up walking the entire stage with her - 25 km - about 15 miles. This is one of the hardest stages. We climbed about 4000 feet over the Pyrenees.
I am starting this in line to get into the Albergue. Lots of people; too few rooms. Luckily I have a reservation.
Todays walk was grueling. The last six km was painful. My left big toe hurt bad. I had trouble keeping my backpack correctly on my hips. My shoulders ached. I told myself to stop wishing it was over and just accept the suffering. I put the lessons I learned in PMAX to good use.
Beth could not have done this walk with or without a backpack.
Now for the bright side: it was beautiful. We walked up into the mountains with incredible vistas. Lots of sheep, horses and cows grazing. We walked on little country roads, gravel roads, paths of every size and all kinds of terrain.
We stopped for a few water fountains. There was one cafe at a hostel and one “food truck”
I saw several folks I had met yesterday. We are old friends already. We met people from all over the world. A lot of Italians.
“Buen Camino” is the customary greeting.
The Camino challenged me today. I was worried about my toe. It feels better now.
I am at the Albergue now. I checked in and got oriented. Am I too old for this? Staying in a dormitory. Sharing a bathroom and shower. Sleeping in a bunk bed. Having to worry that there are no beds available at the next town?
Somehow, I am not too worried. Something will happen and I’ll find a bed tomorrow. I need to find a place in Pamplona the next night. There are so many people on the Camino post Covid that the facilities are overwhelmed.
I am spoiled. I considered getting a decent hotel in Pamplona. Then, I went to dinner at the Albergue. I had no idea what to expect. I showed up with my ticket. They ushered people to tables randomly. I ate with a bunch of strangers who are now my best friends. The food and wine were passable. The conversation was friendly, open and inquisitive. Great camaraderie. I still haven’t slept in a dorm so the jury is still deliberating; however, I am inclined to stay at Albergues as much as possible.
Everyone is a bit worried about where we’ll stay tomorrow night. Nonetheless, everyone plans to just show up in Zubiri and find something, even if we have to walk 3 miles.
Sorry this is kind of stream of consciousness. I am exhausted. My hips and feet are sore.
Lights out is 10 pm. It might be a very long night. In a way, I have a lot riding on this night’s sleep. If it goes well, my plan to stay at Albergues is sensible. If not, who knows.
What I do know is that another big adventure awaits tomorrow.
Love to all,
the bear
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